Slip back in time on a streetcar modeled on a steam engine and travel the tiny city of Matsuyama in Ehime Pref. Our reporter soaks in the hot springs of Dogo Onsen at a castle-like bathhouse and views hotel rooms that are themselves art installations. She also learns about Iyo-kasuri weaving and visits a bar to write some haiku. And, our correspondent suggests sightseeing spots, public baths, and eateries in Kyoto for early bird travelers to check out in the morning, before the crowds descend.

Our reporter explores the mystique of Takachiho, Miyazaki Pref., where deities descended to earth. He rows to a divine waterfall and views a sea of clouds at dawn from 500m high. Later he takes in kagura song and dance performed in gratitude for the harvests. At a pension he makes a bamboo container to be filled with chicken for a meal with the deities. And, our correspondent gives advice on navigating the often-confusing trains, then we look at luxurious bus travel using inexpensive passes.

Our reporter visits the port city of Tsuruga, Fukui Prefecture, which played a pivotal role connecting Japan with Eurasia. She admires tiny, handmade, washi dolls, has fun with anime cosplay for free, and discovers the little known historical connection Tsuruga has with East Europe. To wrap up her trip, she samples the winter delicacy – Echizen crabs, as the local snow crabs are named, at a fish wholesaler. Also, we take a look at rock climbing locations and bouldering gyms across the country.